WaterTurtle: Dolomites / Northen Italy - Part 2 (Selva di Val Gardena / Western Dolomites, Lake Garda, & Verona)

For Part 1 - Venice & Cortina d'Ampezzo / eastern Dolomites, click here

Selva di Val Gardena

After our hike of the Croda da Lago Circuit loop, we drove over the Falzarego Pass and Alta Badia area (a wild scenic & curvy drive) and into Selva di Val Gardena to stay there for the next four nights. We stayed at the excellent Hotel Bel Vert which we highly recommend. They have a very family oriented and friendly staff at this lovely 3 star hotel, that also has a nice bar and very good breakfast. We loved our corner room (ask for #32) on the top floor that had both mountain and town views with outdoor terrace seating. This served as our home base for the western Dolomites.

The view from our room at Hotel Bel Vert

The view into town from our room at Hotel Bel Vert

The walk down the street into town from our hotel

Ask for room #32 at Hotel Bel Vert

Again...the great view from our room at Hotel Bel Vert

Selva is smaller than Cortina and was such a charming mountain town. We immediately fell in love with it. The homes and hotels are built along hillsides covered in green meadows. The town is surrounded by big mountain peaks. Countryside paths and trails wind their way through and outside of town. There were great restaurants and very friendly people. And the cows. The cows are open range and migrate their way each day along some of these trails. Having grown up in the foothills of NC next to a big cow pasture, it was fun to witness.

Puez-Odle Altopiano

There was rain again in the forecast a few days ahead so it was time to get on some more epic hiking while we had good weather. No rest for the weary. After a 9 mile hike the day before at Croda da Lago, we set off for another epic hike on the Puez-Odle Altopiano (11 miles, 1,900+ ft elevation gain). This is a highly rated hike that has constant unbelievable views. The good folks at Earth Trekkers said this was their favorite Dolomites hike. Pound for pound, I have to agree as this was also my favorite hike. Also, we didn't have to drive anywhere for this hike. We started and ended this epic hike at our hotel.

We caught the Dantercepies gondola (a very short walk from Hotel Bel Vert) ride up to start the hike.

The first view when you step off the gondola to begin the hike.

This is typical loose rock & scree conditions that you will encounter on sections of many trails in the Dolomites. Hiking poles are a must unless you have bionic knees.

There is a rock climber on that rocky spire to the left (& hiker on the trail below me)

Yes, that is a rock climber on top of the spire in the foreground.

You can barely make out the trail way out there heading up into that rock formation. We're headed that way.

There is some hiking uphill involved!

The trails are well marked

The first view down into Vallalunga Valley (where we will end up at the end of this hike)

Approaching Refugio Puez

Refugio Puez, where we had a nice lunch break

The many Jesus on the Cross "monuments" around Italian towns and alpine trails typically signify a testament of the community's faith, thanksgiving, a memorial of someone who died, a protective symbol and guide for travelers, and/or protection from natural disasters or accidents in the alpine environment.

Beginning our descent into the valley

Another look down into the valley where we're headed

Thank goodness for hiking poles - they're definitely needed and totally save the knees

An old photo from the 1800s in this very same valley

Baita Ciampac Hutte - While we had another mile to go, we stopped here at this beautiful setting for a post hike charcuterie board and drinks. I had read this place is also very good for dinner (TripAdvisor #1 rated dinner in Selva)

The last mile into town and to our hotel - love the wooden sculptures

Hotel Bel Vert

Sunset view of town from our room

Seceda Ridge

Seceda Ridge is an extremely popular place in the Dolomites. So much so, that it can get very crowded during the high season of July/August and early September. Part of the appeal is that it doesn't require much hiking once you take the Ortisei gondola (with a change at Furnes to a larger gondola) to the top. We ended up walking approximately 2.5 miles but you can do less depending on how close you want to venture to the ridge. The other part of the appeal is that it is definitely one of the most scenic and unique spots in the Dolomites. Worth it in my opinion. There are ways to hike to the top instead or take the less expensive Col Raiser lift from Santa Cristina, then hike up a little bit from there (approx 6 mile hike).

After having completed long back to back hikes in the prior two days, we elected to ride the Ortisei gondola to the top. It's key to get here early for a parking spot at the base of the Ortisei lift. Be prepared for possible long lines to get on the lift. I purchased the life passes online the night before in order to cut down on having to stand in the ticket window line. On this particular day we thankfully didn't have long lines, but I had prior seen some crazy long lines in social media videos.

The view back down into Ortisei from the top of the gondola/chair left ride

The first view of Seceda after you step off the Ortisei/Furnes gondola

This view of Seceda never gets old

The clouds quickly started to set in, giving it an eerie vibe.

Para-gliders were launching off the grassy meadow at the base of Seceda Ridge

Enjoying the expresso with a view at Restaurant Seceda (at the gondola station)

Baita Sofie Hutte, our lunch spot just before it got very cloudy and the views became mostly obscured

It was also good that we went early because we had nice weather and views when we arrived at the top and on our short hike to get closer to Seceda Ridge. Our timing was good because the clouds soon set in at the end of our sightseeing and got worse as we were sitting down for lunch at the Baita Sofie Hutte (great lunch at the top, scenic views of Seceda). For the folks that arrived at the top around lunchtime, they were treated to foggy and clouded obscured views of Seceda and surrounding peaks unfortunately for them, proving that the weather changes quickly in the mountains. You better get on it while the weather is good.

Cows at Seceda

The Ortisei gondola headed down into the abyss

Lunch at Baita Sofie Hutte - Tagliatelle with Venison Ragu

Santa Maddalena

After Seceda, we still had an open afternoon so we drove on to the Val di Funes area of the western Dolomites. Val di Funes is a scenic valley area with amazing mountain views and rolling green meadows. We stopped in the quaint village of Santa Maddalena to take in a couple of popular sights. The town itself doesn't allow non-local auto traffic in its center so you have to park at one of the small surrounding lots and walk the town (very common in many Italian villages). Two churches are the main attraction, the San Giovanni Church (also known as Church of St John or Ranui chapel) and the Santa Maddalena Church, both in a beautiful scenic setting. Clouds obscured the mountain peaks overlooking the village when we visited that afternoon but we managed to capture some decent photos.

Church of St John

Santa Maddalena Church

Piz Boe

Rain was forecasted the next day but we woke up to a partly sunny sky. So I decided to make a run for Piz Boe while the weather was good.

The view from Passo Pordoi lift as we rode up to begin the hike to Piz Boe

Refugio Forcella Pordoi

The clouds moved in fast and completely covered the summit of Piz Boe, where I was headed

Not looking good. I cut my losses and turned around after realizing the fog/clouds wasn't going away anytime soon (it didn't). Wouldn't have been able to see anything at the top.

What a difference a few minutes makes

A cable service lift that transports supplies to the refugio - note the empty kegs ready to go back down

More WW1 history here

The scenic drive back to Selva at Pordoi Pass - the clouds parted here temporarily

After returning to Selva over the scenic Pordoi Pass in time for lunch and the rain, I decided to go on a walkabout on the trails in and just outside of town. I didn't have a plan but with my trusty rain jacket, I ventured out. I ended up on the Vallalunga Valley Trail and saw some pretty cool sights completely by accident including the Wolkenstein Castle ruins.

A scenic walking path in Selva di Val Gardena

Selva di Val Gardena

in the town center

multi-use path

Hotel Bel Vert

Another interesting wood sculpture along the trail

Rovine del Castello Wolkenstein ruin, which dates back to the 13th century, tucked into the rocky cliffside

What it used to look like

A view of the Wolkenstein castle ruin from below

I came upon these cows on the trail and wasn't sure if I should continue, but they allowed me to pass and didn't move a muscle as I walked by them.

A small church on the Vallalunga Valley Trail

The interior of the church

You can just make out the Wolkenstein castle ruin tucked in at lower left of the rocky mountain

Wood sculptures in progress out in the open at a wood shop

The walk down to dinner on our last night in Selva, with the moon rising over the mountain

Lake Garda

Our next destination was the city of Verona but we first toured parts of Lake Garda (Lago di Garda) on the way. I've long known about Lago di Garda, Italy's largest lake, through windsurfing magazines and videos over the years. It's long been a popular spot for windsurfing in Italy and Europe at large. So naturally, I wanted to see it. We elected to stop first at Riva Del Garda on the northwest corner of the lake, then drive down the eastern side of the lake on our way to Verona.

The view as we drove down the mountain towards Lake Garda

It's hard to see in this photo but it was at this moment as we were driving down the mountain that we saw over 200 windsurfers and wing foilers ripping across the lake in some good wind.

Riva del Garda, a beautiful lake town

Torbole

Torbole Beach

Torbole, on the northeast corner of Lake Garda, seems to be main windsurfing location on the lake with several windsurfing & wing foiling centers.

It was good to see so many youth at this windsurfing club, rigging & derigging their own equipment.

This windsurfing club's outdoor members' board & foil storage area

A dream windsurfing setting

Torbole sailing marina

Torbole

Malcesine, on the eastern side of Lake Garda, another beautiful lakefront town

Castello Scaligero

The view across the lake from Malcesine

Malcesine

Verona

Verona is one of those classic Italian towns you don't hear much about but we had heard good things from a friend. It's right on the way to Venice from Lake Garda so we decided to check it out by staying there for our two final nights before flying home from Venice. After parking outside the city center in a parking garage, then towing our luggage about a mile across cobblestone streets and cracked sidewalks and working up a sweat (again, this is fairly common in the best of the Italian towns), we had quite the debacle with our AirBnB booking upon check-in.

Long story short, we had to rebook with another AirBnb unit nearby, which wasted 2+ hours after an already long day. Suffice it to say, AirBnB customer service was a bear to work with and has me re-thinking using AirBnB in the future, especially overseas. Like I said before, I know...this is a first world problem and sometimes things happen when traveling. Luckily and gratefully, we eventually got into another place and got settled in for a nice evening out on the town and fun sightseeing the next day.

The view out of the apartment where we stayed

Sunset from the apartment

The next morning we walked all around the historical city center. This is the Verona Arena, a Roman amphitheater estimated to have been built around 30 AD. It still holds operas and other performances to this day.

Piazza Bra - a huge open square lined with cafes

Adige River that winds its way around in a horseshoe shape and borders the historical center city

Ponte Scaligero bridge

Castelvecchio, a medieval castle constructed in 1354

Torre dei Lamberti - built starting in 1172 - we would climb the steps inside to the top for great 360 degree views of Verona

From inside the top of the Torre dei Lamberti clock tower - worth the stair climb (there is an elevator but what's the fun in that), excellent 360 degree views of the city.

a nice lunch at B29 Sottocosta Piazza Erbe around the corner from the Torre dei Lamberti tower

Piazza Erbe

Ponte Pietra bridge

Climbing the stairs to Piazzale Castel San Pietro for more great views

Basilica of St Anastasia - a 13th century Gothic church

Back at the apartment after a long day of walking & sightseeing

The rooftop at Tre Marchetti Trattoria - a great place for drinks overlooking the Verona Arena - our daughter snagged a reservation there for us (as well as a dinner reservation & treating us to an excellent dinner at Ristorante Greppia) on the last evening of our trip.